A Quick Fix?
Aversive Punishment is often billed as a 'quick fix' but most of the time, using aversive techniques effectively is neither quick, nor a fix, and certainly not easy to do. In Barking Up the Right Tree, I objectively explain the many reasons why aversive stimuli seldom 'fix' problems. To administer aversive stimuli effectively as punishment requires a very high skill-set and strict adherence to several criteria, such as immediacy and consistency. And of course, humans are not well known for exceptional timing or consistency.
When aversive stimuli are effective as punishment, the undesirable behaviors quickly decrease in frequency and are eliminated, which of course would eliminate the need for continued punishment of any kind. However, this is not what we see. Instead, we usually observe continued repeated leash 'corrections' and shocks, that offer proof positive that the aversive stimuli cannot possibly be defined as punishment, because they aren't working! The aversive stimuli are merely — aversive stimuli — that are being administered in a haphazard fashion. Remember, in the behavioral sciences, 'reward' and 'punishment' are not defined by whether they are nice or nasty but rather, by their EFFECT on BEHAVIOR — reinforcement or inhibition, i.e., increasing or decreasing frequency of behavior. The misapplication of aversive stimuli is extremely time-consuming because many dogs will remain on-leash, and wearing collars, halters and harnesses for life!
Moreover, even in those instances when the use of aversive punishment does successfully eliminate an undesirable behavior, that is only part of the puzzle. Inhibiting and eliminating behavior is barely sufficient, and certainly questionable, especially if the behaviors are normal, natural, and necessary doggy
behaviors.
We want to get the dog back on track. The prime directive of training is always to teach a dog to promptly, happily, and willingly perform a SPECIFIC desirable behavior ON CUE. Ask not, "How can I stop my dog from barking, jumping up, or peeing in the wrong place?" Instead, ask yourself, "How can I teach my dog to Shush, to Sit, or to Pee on Cue (at the right time and in the right place)"
With Lure-Reward Training, the Science of Training is as easy as 1-2-3-4: 1. Request, 2. Lure, 3. Response, 4. Reward. The Art of Training is choosing the most effective Lure to teach your dog, which specific behavior you desire, i.e., teaching your dog the meaning of your verbal Requests — ESL — English as a Second Language. Comprehended words hugely facilitate instruction and prevention and guidance when dogs err — far more effectively than non-specific, aversive feedback. So, what are the best lures to teach a dog to Shush on Cue, or to Pee on Cue, or to roll Over (for examination) on Cue?